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Choosing a Cordless Drill

A cordless drill is the tool you will use most and the one most worth spending on. The differences between a $90 and a $250 drill are real, and they are not marketing.

Voltage

PlatformTorque classBest for
12VLightCabinet hardware, assembly, occasional work
18V / 20VGeneralThe right answer for almost everyone
36V / 40VHeavyStructural screws, big bits, masonry

18V/20V is the standard platform with the widest range of tools and the best battery availability. Going higher adds weight for work most woodworkers do not do.

Brushless matters

A brushless motor has no friction brushes wearing out. It runs cooler, lasts far longer, and is more efficient, which translates to more work per charge. On a tool you use daily, the price difference pays back.

Brushed motors are still fine for occasional use and for budget tools. They are not wrong, they are just consumable.

Drill versus driver

This distinction matters more than most people expect:

Using a drill for structural deck screws is the most common reason screws strip or snap. An impact driver solves it. If you build decks, this is not an optional upgrade.

Battery platform is the real decision

Buy into a platform, not a tool. Batteries are the expensive part of ownership, and platforms are not cross-compatible across brands. A manufacturer with a good tool but a weak battery ecosystem is a poor choice if you will eventually buy a saw, a sander and an impact driver.

Buy two batteries minimum. Single-battery tools mean waiting for a charge at the worst moment.

Chuck size

½ inch is the standard and accepts everything up to 1 inch bits. A ⅜ inch chuck on a lighter drill is fine for smaller bits and pilot holes, but it limits what you can use later. The keyless chuck is better than a keyed one if you work with one hand.

For woodworking specifically

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