Best Drill Presses for a Home Shop
A drill press does two things a handheld drill cannot: it holds the bit perfectly perpendicular to the work, and it repeats the same depth every time. Both of those are what make accurate joinery possible, and neither depends on motor power.
Quill travel is the spec that matters
Quill travel is how far the spindle can move down without repositioning the table. It is the most important number on a drill press and the one most often left out of marketing.
| Quill travel | What you can do |
|---|---|
| 2 inches | Thin stock, shallow holes. Constant table adjustments. |
| 3 to 3.5 inches | Most furniture work, dowel holes, through holes in 4x4 |
| 4 inches and up | Deep boring, mortising with an attachment |
A press with 2 inches of travel will frustrate you constantly because you will be moving the table for almost every hole. Three inches or more is the practical minimum.
Benchtop or floor model
- Benchtop. Sits on a bench or a dedicated stand. Cheaper, lighter, and plenty for most shops. The limitation is that a tall workpiece will not fit under the spindle.
- Floor model. Taller column, more mass, more capacity. Worth it if you routinely drill into tall assemblies or use a mortising attachment.
Variable speed, and why it matters
Wood wants higher spindle speeds than metal. Large Forstner bits and hole saws want low speed; small brad points want high speed. A variable speed press lets you match them. On a single speed press you will be right for one range and wrong for the other, and the symptoms are burning at high speed or rough, torn holes at low speed.
Features worth having
- Tilting table. Lets you drill angled holes accurately. More useful than it sounds, especially for angled dowel joints.
- Depth stop. Repeatable depth for a run of identical holes. Essential, and present on almost everything.
- Work light and laser. Nice, not necessary.
- A fence. For repeatable hole placement along a row. Usually an accessory, and worth adding.
Do you even need one?
If you drill a handful of holes a month and mostly work with a handheld drill, a portable drill guide gets you most of the accuracy for a fraction of the cost and none of the floor space. Buy a press when you are doing repeated accurate holes: dowel joints, shelf pin rows, or anything where a hole that is one degree off ruins the piece.
Safety note
Never wear gloves at a drill press, and clamp the work rather than holding it. A spinning bit catches a loose workpiece instantly and spins it, which is how most drill press injuries happen. Use a hold-down or a clamp even for what looks like a quick hole.
Frequently asked questions
How do I stop tear-out on the back of the hole?
Back the work with scrap, and reduce feed pressure as the bit breaks through. For through holes in good stock, drill until the point just appears, then flip the board and finish from the other side.
Can I use a drill press as a sander or mortiser?
Sanding drums yes, at low speed. Mortising needs a dedicated hollow chisel attachment and a press with enough quill travel and a solid table. Check your press is rated for it before buying the attachment.
What speed should I use for wood?
Generally high: 2,000 to 3,000 rpm for small bits, dropping to 500 to 1,000 rpm for bits over an inch or for hole saws. If the wood is smoking, slow down and clear the chips.
Recommended for this project
These are the current best-rated options on Amazon. Ratings and review counts are live, so check the listing before you buy.