Best Wood Drill Bits and Which to Use Where
A standard twist bit from a general purpose set will drill wood, but it wanders, it tears out on the exit side, and it does not cut a flat bottom. The purpose-made wood bits each solve a specific problem, and they cost very little.
The four types
| Type | Best for | Limitation |
|---|---|---|
| Brad point | Clean, accurate holes in solid wood and veneered sheet | Shallow to moderate depth; expensive in large sizes |
| Spade (paddle) | Fast rough holes in framing and softwood | Rough exit, wanders, no good for fine work |
| Forstner | Flat-bottomed holes, overlapping holes, partial holes | Slow, needs a drill press for large sizes |
| Auger / ship auger | Deep holes in timber, posts and beams | Needs serious torque; pulls hard |
Brad point bits have a sharp center spur that centers the bit and two outer spurs that score the wood fibers before the cutters remove them. This is why they do not wander and why the hole wall is clean. For dowel joints and any visible hole, they are the only sensible choice.
Forstner bits cut a flat bottom with a rim, so they can drill partway through, drill overlapping holes for a mortise, and drill at an angle. Slow but irreplaceable.
Drilling without tear-out
Tear-out happens on the exit side as the bit breaks through. Three fixes:
- Back it up. Clamp a scrap of wood behind the workpiece. The bit exits into the scrap, not your good face. This is the simplest and most reliable fix.
- Slow down at breakthrough. Ease off the feed as the point emerges. Less thrust means less tearing.
- Drill from both sides for a through hole in thick stock, meeting in the middle. Mark carefully, because a slight misalignment shows.
Getting the depth right
For blind holes, set a depth stop. A piece of tape on the bit is the common trick, but it slips and it is easy to misread. A proper depth stop collar is a few dollars and does not move. For a drill press, use the built-in stop and check it on scrap first.
What to buy first
- A brad point set in the sizes you actually use for dowels: 1/4, 5/16, 3/8 inch.
- A spade bit set for rough work and running wire: cheap and fast.
- Two or three Forstner bits in the sizes your hardware needs, commonly 35 mm for European hinges and 1 inch or 1-3/8 inch for shelf pins and plugs.
- Countersink and plug cutter if you are covering screw heads.
Frequently asked questions
Can I use normal twist bits in wood?
Yes for rough holes where the finish does not matter. They are fine for pilot holes and for drilling through framing. Anything visible or precise wants a brad point.
Why does my bit wander off the mark?
A twist bit without a center spur follows the path of least resistance, especially in hard or figured grain. Center punch the spot, or use a brad point whose spur physically locates the hole.
How do I keep bits sharp?
Brad point and Forstner bits can be sharpened with a small file or a diamond paddle on the flat cutting faces only, never on the outside diameter. Most people simply replace spade bits, which are cheap enough that sharpening is not worth the time.
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