Choosing Hardwood Flooring
Hardwood floors last a century. Choosing the wrong one can mean replacing it in twenty years. The decisions that matter are species, construction, width and finish.
Solid versus engineered
| Solid hardwood | Engineered hardwood | |
|---|---|---|
| Construction | Full-thickness wood throughout | Real wood veneer over a plywood or HDF core |
| Can be refinished | 3–5 times over its life | 1–2 times, depending on veneer thickness |
| Thickness | Usually ¾" | ⅜" to ½" total |
| Best for | Main floor, above grade, dry climate | Basements, concrete slabs, over radiant heat |
| Price | Higher | 30–50% less |
Engineered hardwood is not a compromise — it is a better choice in the places where solid hardwood fails. Concrete slabs and basements trap moisture, and solid hardwood cannot be installed there. Engineered is dimensionally stable because the core is cross-laminated plywood.
Species selection for where you live
- Oak (red or white) — the default for a reason. Hard, refinishable, takes stain, and the grain hides dust. White oak is lighter and more neutral; red oak is warmer and pinker.
- Maple — harder than oak, very light and uniform. Stains blotchily; most people leave it natural or use a very light stain.
- Walnut — the premium choice for a formal room. Softer than oak, so dents show more. Colour varies a lot from board to board.
- Birch — pale and uniform, popular for a Scandinavian look. Not as hard as oak.
- Cherry — fine grain, beautiful, but darkens noticeably in sunlight. Do not choose it in a south-facing room unless you like the change.
Plank width
Wider planks make a room look larger and a ceiling look lower. Narrow planks look traditional. Beyond about 7 inches, cupping risk rises and subfloor flatness matters more — a high spot under a wide plank shows as a gap, and a low spot shows as a shadow line.
Wide planks also increase waste: every end joint has to land cleanly, so the waste factor goes up from 10% to 15% or more.
Finish
| Finish | Look | Maintenance |
|---|---|---|
| Water-based poly / urethane | Clear, light, keeps natural colour | Scratches less than expected; recoat every 3–5 years |
| Oil-based poly | Amber, warms the colour | Harder film, more maintenance to start, recoat every 3–5 years |
| Hardwax oil | Matte, natural, repairable | Refresh with oil every 1–2 years; no film to recoat |
| Factory finish | Whatever the manufacturer applied | Lowest maintenance — often 10–20 year warranty |
Factory-finished floors are the practical choice if you do not want to rent a floor sander. The finish is applied in a controlled environment and typically carries a long warranty.
Subfloor is the real foundation
Floor failure is a subfloor failure. The floor sits on what is under it. Before any hardwood goes down: check that the subfloor is level within 3/16 inch over 10 feet, solid, and free of moisture. A moisture meter reading above 12% means the floor is not ready.
If the subfloor is soft or hollow in places, fix it before installing. Replacing a floor is far cheaper than replacing a floor plus the damaged subfloor underneath.
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