Best Woodworking Bench Vises
A proper woodworker's vise holds a board upright for dovetailing, planing an edge and sawing joints, and it does that far better than a metalworking engineer's vise. The difference is jaw depth, the direction the work is held, and whether the vise racks under load.
Front vise, face vise, or tail vise
- Face vise (front vise). Mounted on the front-left of the bench, holding work vertically against the bench face. This is the one you use constantly for dovetails, tenons and edge planing. If you buy one vise, this is it.
- Tail vise. At the right end of the bench, working against a dog hole or a sliding jaw, holding long boards flat for planing. Wonderful to have, entirely optional.
- Engineer's vise. The metalworking one with shallow serrated jaws. It is not a substitute: the jaws are too shallow to hold a board upright securely, and the serrations mark wood. It is fine for metal, poor for woodworking.
What makes a good woodworker's vise
| Feature | Why it matters |
|---|---|
| Deep jaws | Holds a board upright without it tipping. Shallow jaws are the main complaint about cheap vises. |
| Two guide bars | Stops the movable jaw racking, which is what causes the jaw to grip unevenly and let work slip. |
| Quick release | Lets you slide the jaw in and out without winding. Saves enormous amounts of time. |
| Wood or composite jaw liners | Protects the work. Metal jaws mark timber even with light pressure. |
| Dog hole in the jaw | Lets you hold long stock flat against the bench using a bench dog. |
Cast iron or steel
Cast iron is heavy, rigid and damps vibration well, which is why it is the traditional choice for a bench vise. Steel is lighter and generally stronger for its size but rings more. For a woodworking vise that will be taking hand-plane thrust all day, cast iron's mass is a genuine advantage, not just tradition.
Mounting it properly
- Mount it at the front-left corner for a right-handed worker, so your body works along the bench while the vise holds the near end.
- Set the jaw top flush with the benchtop or very slightly below, so long stock resting in the vise is supported by the bench rather than hanging.
- Bolt through, do not screw. Carriage bolts with washers and nuts under the top. Wood screws pull out under the leverage a vise generates.
- Add jaw liners. Leather, cork or thin plywood glued to the jaws protects work and improves grip considerably.
Frequently asked questions
Why does my work slip no matter how hard I tighten?
Almost always jaw depth or racking. If the jaws are shallow, a tall board pivots out of them no matter the pressure. If the vise has a single guide bar, the movable jaw tilts and grips at an angle. A deep-jawed vise with twin bars fixes both.
Can I use an engineer's vise for woodworking?
You can in a pinch, with plywood jaw liners, but it is a compromise. Depth is the issue: it cannot hold a board upright for hand work the way a woodworker's vise does.
How big should the vise be?
Jaw width of 6 to 7 inches covers most furniture work. Going to 10 inches adds weight and reach you rarely use, and it puts more leverage on the bench when you lean into it.
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